It’s her one animal indulgence. After years of disciplined vegetarianism, she’s consumed by cravings for crab meat. Landlocked in the midwest most of the year, it’s not an issue. It’s rarely available, and when she can get it, it’s both too expensive and too low-quality to consider buying. But when she’s in New Orleans (where she doubts anyone is capable of staying vegetarian), she feasts on it at every meal, particularly the soft-shell kind. She knows she should be enjoying the other delicacies: the red beans and rice, the jambalaya, the poboys, the oysters. But crab is her only desire.